I just got back from 10 wonderful days in Iceland, and thought I should report back on the gluten-free food situation.
Overall: pretty great! Staple foods in iceland is fish, fish, lamb, more fish, potatoes and veg. Mostly grilled, not a lot of deep-fried stuff. Bread tends to be served with meals, but usually on the side.
Gluten-free knowledge: everyone speaks English, so communicating isn't difficult, and most good restaurants know what you mean when you say "gluten-free". Reykjavik is probably the best, but we found great places in Akureyri and the middle of nowhere Westfjords too.
So, a few reccomendations: (keep in mind I can't do dairy or soy either, and my man is a strict vegetarian, so we mostly stuck to veg-friendly places)
Self-catering: Bring what you can with you, if possible. You will be able to find gluten-free pasta, etc, but it will likely be twice as much. Unless you're lucky enough to be passing by Silva, then baked goods are probably going to be a rare treat. I saw corn/rice crackers a few places. For fresh things, produce is slim pickings, and also quite pricey since much of it has to be shipped in. Smoked and cured salmon can be found packaged and ready to eat. Avoid things that have to be frozen (I brought ice packs for my cooler, but didn't find a freezer to put them in), though if it's cold out you can just put it outside and it'll chill pretty fast.
Bonus is the "discount" grocery store, some of which have gluten-free stuff but not all. Netto is more well stocked, and more expensive, but more produce and gluten-free stuff available. Here's a really great "food buying guide" http://www.iheartrey...ing-in-iceland/
Glo - fantastic mostly-vegetarian restaurant downtown. They have a few locations in the Reykjavik area. Cafeteria style, where you pick a main, and can have 3 salads. All their salads are gluten-free (no CC worries), and mains are labeled as gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan. Oh, and great gluten-free crackers. We ate there twice, and the food is fantastic. Pretty cheap for Iceland, too.
Sea Baron - little fish place down on the harbour, where you pick a skewer of fish and they grill it up for you. Just tell them you're gluten-free.
Kol - this was the nice shmancy place we went to, a more modern take on Icelandic food (without the touristy whale gimmicks). We were tremendously underdressed and lucky to get a table. Gluten free was no problem, and they were able to switch out the buttery potatoes for another veg. Best lamb I'd had in... ever?
Reykjavik Chips - French (or Belgian) Fries. Just fries. Nothing else in the fry fryer but fries. Pick a mayo-based sauce. So good! it's a little takeout place packed mostly with students looking for a (relatively) cheap snack and a beer.
Akureyri - for Iceland's 2nd largerst "city", it's pretty small, and plan ahead if you're there on a Sunday, but they've got some good stuff:
Silva - about a 15min drive south of town, this place not only serves fantastic vegetarian and gluten free food, there's also a spectacular view of the valley. We ate here twice! Had the flat-bread "pizza" one night, and soup the other, but the real draw is the excellent gluten-free crackers, and fresh gluten-free bread! So good! I would have bought a loaf if we weren't travelling.
In town, if you don't have a strict non-meat-eater in tow, then the place to go is Rub 23, which is known as one of the best restaruants in town and in the country. They do sushi (I got some takeout. it was pretty good), as well as various meat and fish with your choice of rub. I didn't get to have the full experience here, but their gluten-free reputation is pretty good.
On the main floor of the Kea Hotel, Mulaberg Bistro also looked promising in the gluten-free department (their soup, first thing on the menu, was listed and Gluten and Dairy free), though we didn't eat there it was probably where we would have gone for a more upscale dinner.
Westfjords - if you're brave enough to risk the crazy driving, it's worth it.
Isafjordur - we planned to have dinner at Tjorhusid, known as the best place in town and one of the best fish places in the country. I'd emailed them to check on their gluten-free capabilities (possibility of CC from the skillets they use, but they can do the fish without flour), but we didn't make a reservation so arrived to find outselves out of luck. Very unique place down on the harbour, long communal tables, smelled fantastic, but not this time.
Heydalur - instead, we had dinner at the country hotel we were staying at. Delicious! In the morning, they even made me gluten-free pancakes for breakfast, which I couldn only eat one of because they were so filling! Very gluten-free conscious, and vegetarian/vegan friendly too.
We also stayed in Stykkisholmur, which has a handful of nice restaurants, though the meal we ended up having was mediocre and dissappointing in comparison to the rest of the trip (go to Narfeyrarstofa for drinks, but the food does not live up to the pricetag)
is expensive, so choose your booze wisely. You can get wine and spirits from all over, but if you're looking for local, try the liquers (sweet but not too sweet) and schnapps from Reykjavik 64, be brave and have a shot of brennavin (carraway-flavoured schnapps, strong stuff but not as bad as it's "black death" reputation), or enjoy some really good local gin (try the barrell-aged, a bit of a golden colour). There's also local vodka, if that's your thing. I saw gluten-free beer at a grand-total of 1 bar, but it was gluten-removed, so no luck there. Everything is pricey, but they take presentation very seriously, so you'll get your precious cocktail or shot of gin in a lovely glass.
Coffee! It's taken quite seriously on the Island, and even machine-espresso isn't that bad. Reykjavik Roasters is the place to go in the city (they also have very nice nut bars as a gluten-free treat!). Some of the best coffee I've had, perfectly fine black if you can't have soy milk. (I saw almond milk at the grocery store, but no cafes had it). Te and Kaffi is the Starbucks substitute, available all over the country and pretty good. Anywhere with an espresso machine will make you a good cup of coffee.
So, that is my 10 kronor on Iceland. We were on the road much of the time, so I was snacking a lot for lunches, and only self-catered for a couple days. Overall, stick with fish and grilled lamb and you should have no problem. For vegetarians, things might be a bit tougher. There seemed to be a lot of "nut loaf" rather than tofu, but I'm not sure how many of those are gluten-free or not. Soup is another good option - fish soup if you can do dairy, meat soup in broth if you can't.
As far as I can tell, no glutening. Probably a bit more butter in a few things than I should have had. Plan ahead and contact restaurants/hotels in advance if you you have questions, but there's nothing to stop a Celiac from eating perfectly well.
Have you been to iceland? Add your suggestions!